Our electical appointment last Monday including all things ‘powered’. Of course, lighting choices were included in this appointment. Without the help of our wonderful Metricon advisor, we would have been lost and completely confused.
It’s amazing all the things you need to think about when wiring a house – most of it I wouldn’t have thought of otherwise. The number of lights in a room, the light spacing, where to put the switches for said lights – it’s mind boggling!
Here’s a few tips I’ve got after going through this exhausting meeting…
- When estimating the lighting for a room, estimate based upon a spacing of 1.2 meters between lights if you’re using halogen, and 1.0 meters between LED/low wattage downlights.
- Remember that light exits the fixture at a 45 degree angle and factor in corners and dark corners.
- When choosing your power points for a room, don’t put them back to back on adjoining rooms. It’s very easy and relatively inexpensive for a sparky to add a power point on the opposite side of an internal wall. Put it on a different wall – it’s much more expensive and difficult to run wiring to the opposite side of the room after the walls are closed up.
- Most builders allocate a single socket for a room. It’s easy to change naked bulbs out for a halogen after handover, and it’s a fraction of the price. Metricon was charging $105/downlight. We went to Beacon lighting this week and found high quality gimbal halogens for $35/downlight.
- If you’re wanting to run cabling through the wall for your wall mounted TV, try getting a pre-installed conduit with a feed wire. You can choose your own cabling and, assuming it’s not all that far, run your own cables. It cost us around $80 for the conduit.
If you pay attention to the details of the wiring, and understand what can and can’t be done after handover, you can really save a good amount of money. If you’re not sure whether it can be done or not – just ask. The types of requests the builder gets are far and wide. They’ve probably heard it before.